Day 18 - Granada

Well, we made the pilgrimage and have now seen the breathtaking Alhambra situated high over the city of Granada. It truly is one of the world's great attractions (over 4 million people visit it each year). It was originally built as a fortress in the 9th century, fell into ruin and then rebuilt as a royal palace in 1333 by Yusuf I, the sultan of Grenada at that time. The complex is divided into three sections- the Nasrid palaces, the Generalife (gardens) and the old fortress of the Alcazaba.

The theme of the complex is "paradise on earth" which becomes a recurring feeling as you wander throughout. The design and structure of the Nasrid Palaces is considered the finest example of Islamic architectural art outside the Islamic world.

The decoration consists of carved plaster Arabic inscriptions (calligraphy) with beautifully carved wood ceilings and columns and painted tiles used as panelling for the walls. Everywhere there are fountains with running water, reflecting pools, gorgeous flowers, foliage, nightingales singing - simply beautiful. All the stylistic elements that had been created and used during eight centuries of Muslim rule in Spain are perfectly integrated with styles used by later Christian rulers who inhabited the complex. The one exception to that perfect integration occurred when Charles V plunked a huge palace into the middle of the complex in the 16th century and then never actually lived in it. Notable is the design of a round courtyard within a square building which was most unusual for the time.

The ceilings of the rooms are especially striking. Many of the rooms have windows overlooking all of Grenada.

Islamic art does not use representations of living beings in its art but uses geometric patterns in a repeating style. The rare exception is the Lions Court at the Alhambra where twelve lion sculptures are depicted as part of the centre fountain. See photo here:

The dome of the Hall of Two a Sisters. Hard to see the detail here but this dome uses "mocarabes" which is a decorative element resembling stalactites and has many religious connotations.

I wish I could convey the experience of seeing the Alhambra better. Photos don't do it enough justice - nothing compares to seeing the Alhambra in person.

The Alcazaba is where you get the best views of Granada.

Weary of walking after our 4 hour visit we headed back into town for a "pepito break". That night we found a great tapas place called Bodegas Castaneda filled with locals (always a good sign!). Lots of rustic food washed down with glasses of red wine and sherry.

We were two nights in Grenada and stayed at the AC Palacio de Santa Paula hotel. Highly recommend it - great location in the city centre and an excellent breakfast buffet.

Back to Madrid tomorrow for one night and then fly back to Toronto on Saturday...and I don't want to talk about THAT!

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Location:Granada