Day 11 - Marrakech

After a couple of hectic days, I'm back to the blog again. On Thursday morning after waking to the nearby mosque wake up call at 6 am and then again to the call to prayers at 7am, we ate breakfast and headed out with our city guide, Mustapha. First stop was the Koutubia mosque, a 12th century, 300 foot high tower. This is the architectural prototype for all other mosques in Morocco - the scalloped arches, jagged crenellations and square shape (mosques were round up to then) were highly influential. Once again, off limits to non-Muslims but we were happy to gaze at it from the outside - it's a beautiful structure. Below is a daytime and then nighttime shot






Then on to the Bahia Palace - not ancient - in fact built in the 19th century but renowned for being beautifully decorated from floor to ceiling in coloured tiles and carved stucco, topped by stunning painted and gilded inlaid wood ceilings.













After lunch we visited the Saadian Tombs, built in the 16th century by Sultan Ahmed el-Mansour Ed-Dhabi of the Saadian dynasty. Built from marble and with extensive use of gold, El-Mansour spared no expense and intended this palace to be a mausoleum for his family. After his death in 1603, the subsequent sultan sealed it up in order to keep his predecessor out of sight and mind. The storks then took over and it wasn't until aerial photography revealed the site in 1917, that the tombs were returned to their glory










We saw this musician in the street playing a lute type instrument (I can't remember the Arabic name for it). As he plays, he swings the tassel on his hat in circles - very unusual! For a small donation, he's fine with photos being taken.




Our final visit for the day was to the Majorelle Gardens in the newer area of Marrakech. Yves St Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergere bought this electric blue villa and surrounding botanical gardens in 1980. Per his instructions, his ashes were scattered across the garden after his death in 2008. The gardens have almost 300 plant species, most of the desert variety. It's such a beautiful and peaceful place to retreat to from the hectic pace of Marrakech.














We still found time to visit the souks (market shops in the Medina) in Marrakech. Much bigger
than those in Fes. We tried to haggle with a scarves seller but it didn't go very
well. Items in the souks have no posted prices so you have to do your research
before making an offer. We probably paid too much but that's the risk you take.
We also made the requisite visit to the carpet shop below - see photo below.
No purchases made.



And finally, what's a visit to Marrakech without meeting a snake charmer.
That black cobra looks mean but the snake charmer seemed to have it all under control. He insisted on posing with me with one of his smaller snakes - I just kept smiling! I have no idea if the music actually charms these snakes.










Tomorrow we head out of town to the seaside town of Essaouria.

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Location:Marrakech, Morocco

Day 10 - Driving to Marrakesh

Our guide Khalid was ready with car at 8:30am so off we went on the long road trip to Marrakesh. Our first stop was the town of Ifrane which could be described as the "Collingwood" of Morocco. Situated high up in the Atlas Mountains, it's a popular skiing spot for those who love winter sports.



More Swiss than Moroccan!


Morocco is a country of geographical contrasts. Many people have a mental picture of Morocco as all sand and oases with palm trees but in fact it's quite different. . One moment you're in dry arid countryside and then an hour later you can find yourself in deeply forested mountains - see photo below.



The first half of the route to Marrakesh is all windy roads and Carl soon fell victim to car sickness. Thanks to a quick stop at a pharmacy in a small town, we have gravol and he's now feeling better.

We're passing through lots of small villages and towns - some certainly more prosperous than others. Lots of sheep and goat herds everywhere. Have spotted the occasional camel.

Arrived in Marrakesh - hot and tired - a 10 hour trip! Got stopped for speeding even though Khalid was being very careful. He didn't notice the reduction to 80k and was nailed. Numerous speed traps the entire way. In Morocco you don't bother to try and talk your way out of a ticket - the police are quite authoritarian so useless to argue.

As we approached the city, almost every form of transportation began to fill the roads - trucks, cars, mules/donkeys pulling carts, people riding mules, 3 wheeled bike trucks, motor bikes, bicycles - but all manage somehow to share the road. Very chaotic but Khalid, who is from Marrakesh, got us to our hotel. We're staying for 3 nights at La Maison Arabe - beautiful hotel with a lovely view from our room- see below - note proximity to minaret tower - we'll be rising with the call to prayers at 7am!





Tomorrow we tour the city. Au revoir until then!

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Location:On the road to Marrakesh

Day 9 - last day in Fes

Our final day in Fes before setting off for Marakkesh. Today we toured around the Villa Nouvelle or new city. Only in a city as old as Fes, could you find a district called "New" because it's only 700 years old.

We also went up to visit the Merenid ruins, all that's left of the Merenid dynasty which ruled Morocco in the 14th century. The views over Fes are spectacular as the photo below shows. You can clearly see the wall which encircles the medina.







Also a pic of the large cemetery - all the graves, which are always white, face east toward Mecca.




Before we leave, some final thoughts on the medina that I didn't include yesterday. In the medina you are constantly surrounded by rushing, hustling people pushing their way through the narrow corridors/streets. Stalls present everything from tall baskets of snail shells (must be a local delicacy), small mountains of fruits and vegetables, to carcasses of various animals - mostly lamb, sheep and beef. Every few seconds a push cart or some poor heavily laden donkey carrying animal hides, fabrics or food pushes past. There is constant movement and interaction between the sellers, women and children who live in this enscapulated city of 156,000 people. Small emaciated cats sit off to the side or run between your feet. Baskets of the freshest dates you have ever tasted are offered at several stalls. All this activity combined with the echoing calls to prayer from the local mosques makes for a very atmospheric and evocative experience.




Tomorrow is Marrakesh, a 7 hour drive from here but there will be stops in a couple of towns to stretch and lunch.

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Location:Fes, Morocco

Day 8 - the Fes Medina

Today we ventured forth into the Fes medina. The medina is the ancient walled centre of the city and not much has changed here in over 1,000 years. It's a maze of twisted streets, blind alleys and hundreds of tiny shops (souqs) and really is a mind boggling place to visit. The narrow streets are crowded with shoppers, donkeys carrying heavy loads, pilgrims heading to various mosques, and childrenHussein our guide grew up in Fes so he was very adept at steering us through it all.

Artisan activities such as weaving, rug making, leather making are all in full force here. The way it works is that your guide will tell you that you must learn about how rugs are made in Morocco. You are taken to rug shop where a comfortable seat and mint tea are offered. After learning how the rugs are made, the hard sell begins. Everyone is very polite and friendly but they are relentless in trying to persuade you to buy. The process is repeated at the pottery store, the linen store and the leather store. I did end up purchasing two djellabas which are the long, flowing caftans many of the women here wear. I couldn't persuade Carl to buy one for himself but if you drop by our house this winter I will be wearing one.










Below are some pics of the Riad we are staying at. Riads are traditional homes with an interior garden or courtyard. This one has been converted into the hotel. The exteriors of these houses have no windows - all windows face into the courtyard.











One of the many decorative gates into the medina.


Entrance into a mosque in the medina. Only Muslims can enter so photos at door only.



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Location:Fes

Day 7 - Rabat, Menkes & Fes

We had a quick breakfast before heading off with our guide Khalid. We will be spending the next 6 days with him as he drives us around Morocco.

Rabat is the capital of Morocco so home to many embassies and other elegant buildings many of which were built by the French during colonial times. First stop was the Chellah, a former Phoenician and then Roman site and finally an Islamic complex now in ruins - a fascinating combination of civilizations in one site. An elegant minaret is now topped by a stork's nest part of a large colony who have taken over the ruins (see photos below).









We then moved on to visit the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, who was the grandfather of the present King. The king's father Hassan II is also interred there. Beautiful marble building with traditionally dressed guards. The carved
plaster and tile work is stunning. We could look down into the tomb from a gallery.

















Then off to Meknes, approximately 90 minutes by car. Big modern highways link all the big cities. Endless groves of olive trees, long undulating foothills, road side stalls selling small mountains of pomegranates are some of the sights as we drive along. At Meknes we visited the mausoleum of Morocco's greatest ruler, Sultan Moulay Ismail who died in 1727. The tomb hall is a lavish showcase of Moroccan craftsmanship. We could take pictures but non-Muslims are not allowed to approach the tomb itself.











Then on to the Roman ruins of Volubilis. The Romans built this city around 40AD and at its height approx 20,000 people lived here. The highlight is the incredibly well preserved mosaic floors of several homes,all still in place. The sun is brutally strong however, so one does not linger and even the guides slather themselves in sunscreen before leading the tourists up there.










After about 3 hours of driving today, we arrive at Fes. We are staying at the Riad Fes, which is simply stunning. I will post pics on the next blog.

Before we sign off, some impressions of Moroccan food. I love Moroccan food and cook it quite frequently at home but I couldn't believe the intensity of the flavours here. It must be the spices, and very likely has much to do with the skill too, but all the salads and tagines have been so delicious. The Moroccans themselves have been so friendly and welcoming since we've arrived, I can't say enough about them.

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Location:Fes